Maintenance and Care of Mechanical Watches
Unlike quartz watches which, unless they are constructed with precious materials, or are a higher-end sport watch, are often replaced or discarded by the time the battery needs to be replaced, a good quality mechanical watch can last practically forever.
Part of the appeal of mechanical watches is in their potential to become heirlooms that can be passed along to future generations. As the Patek Philippe slogan goes: "You never actually own a Patek Philippe; you merely take care of it for the next generation."
The term "jeweled movement" refers to the use of parts that are crafted from synthetic rubies. These parts typically are the parts of a movement that are exposed to friction. The hardness of the stone ensures that it won't wear down under friction as a metal part would. Ruby can also be polished to a high degree of smoothness to reduce friction.
Mechanical movements are also protected by shock-resistance. At a minimum, a good mechanical movement employs the Incabloc System.
Even the best mechanical movements are however relatively delicate when compared to quartz watches. They require special care and regular maintenance. The Time Zone recommends the following guidelines:
Everyday care:
- The shock absorbent features of a mechanical watch should protect it in the event it is dropped a few feet onto a carpeted floor or soft surface. The impact of being dropped onto a hard surface can damage the movement necessitating costly repairs which are not likely to be covered under the manufacturer's warranty.
- Many manufacturers of mechanical watches specifically recommend against playing golf while wearing a mechanical watch. The sudden jolt that occurs when the club head impacts a golf ball can cause of damage to mechanical movements. Some experts however contend that damage to a mechanical watch is unlikely to occur when you participate in sports. We recommend that you balance any potential risk against the value of your watch, and the potential cost of repairs. If you own a very expensive mechanical, you may want to get a less expensive knock-around watch to wear when you play golf or tennis.
- You will probably see better performance from your watch when you wear it everyday. When a watch is frequently wound, lubricants are less likely to become congealed. Furthermore, a watch may perform differently depending upon its orientation. Most mechanical movements are tuned for right-handed people who wear their watch on the left wrist where the watch is usually on its side with the crown down. If the watch is worn infrequently, and is usually left for example dial up on a table top, it may not run as accurately. Also, when you are wearing your watch, it will run in a variety of positions throughout the day. Since it may run faster in some positions and slower in others, the differences tend to be offsetting.
- As a rule of thumb, before you set the date of a mechanical watch, position the hour and minute hands pointing down, or below the '9' and '3'. On some, but not every mechanical movement, the gears that affect a date change may engage the date wheel when the hands are pointing up and could be damaged when the date is moved with the crown.
- Above all, don't ever skip over any instructions and guidelines manufacturers may provide with their watches. While quartz watches are generally idiot-proof, mechanical movements, particularly the more complicated ones, can be damaged when they are not set or handled correctly.